Teaching The Broad Jump

The broad jump is an exercise that seems simpler that it is.
The two most common mistakes that you see on the broad jump exercise is (1) the dog will walk across or between the boards and (2) the dog will cut the corner of the broad jump.
The first mistake (1) is a result of the dog no fully understanding the broad jump as a JUMP. The second mistake (2) is a result of not separating the jumping action from the finding-front action and as a result the dog is trying to do both at the same time.

As with all exercises there are many ways to teach the broad jump; using leg to keep dog jumping straight across jump, using chicken-wire or some other unseen deterrent place on the floor of the jump in the corner to deter dog from landing there, using targets, lures, or toys (thrown and placed) to get the dog to drive straight over the jump. I don't like to teach the dog the broad jump using any of above methods either because they are de-motivating to the dog (making him worry about a leg coming out to "move" him to the center of the jump or worrying about landing on chicken wire) or they don't create the desired behavior (lures and targets can cause a dog to jump flat and cause him to go out straight which makes it harder to find front, not to mention that if there if something on the floor in the ring it may be hard to convince a dog trained in this way that he shouldn't go investigate it).

The way I like to teach the broad jump is to break the exercise up into 2 pieces, a piece (A) Jumping piece and a piece (B) turning and coming to front piece. Piece A & B can be taught concurrently and than put them back together.

Jumping Piece (A):
GOAL: Your dog should jump UP and Over the broad jump independent of where you are.

Step 1: Your dog should be comfortable jumping a normal / PVC / agility jump. He should understand what the "Jump" command means when you are running by the jump with your dog (on both sides), on the same side of the jump as your dog sending him over, and recalling your dog over the jump when you are on the opposite side of the jump from your dog.

Step 2: Add broad jump boards to either side of the normal / PVC / agility jump. Let your dog come up to them and see both the jump and the boards. Repeat Step 1 above with this set up.
The normal / PVC / agility jump height should be LOW, only as high as your dog needs to lift them up over the broad jump.

Step 3: Figure out what your dogs broad jump width your dog will be required to jump in competition and how many boards this will require. Using the appropriate width and the right number of boards (this is important) set up the same set up as Step 2. Where ever space between the boards has a normal / PVC / agility jump in between it. You may have to play some with the spacing and legs of the agility jump to get this to work out. Repeat Step 1 above with this configuration. Start using the verbal command you intend to use for the broad jump. If you are planning to use a hand signal instead you will introduce that later and so in that case continue using your "jump" command. I prefer a verbal command for the broad jump since it allows to dog to fully focus on the jump and not on my body motion. I also use "jump" for both the broad jump and regular jumps.

Step 4: When your dog is comfortable at step 3. Start fading the bar, by lowering it and than taking it away. Look for your dog to still be jumping UP and over the broad jump. If you dog starts jumping flat add back the bar and stay at step 3 for a while longer. Repeat Step 1 without the bar.

Step 5: Start fading the jump stanchions by slowly moving them away from the jump so that finally the jump is alone, you may also add an additional (optional) step where you lay the stations down on their sides. Again repeat Step 1 as you slowly move the stations further away from the broad jump. Remember to make sure you dog is not jumping flat.

Step 6: Your dog should now be able to jump the broad jump NO MATTER where you are standing. Your position should not be important part of their broad-jump-picture.

Turning and Fronting Piece (B):

Step 1: Teach your dog to wrap an object with their right shoulder. Such that when you indicate the object they will run out and wrap it such that their right shoulder is on the inside (clockwise). I like to clicker train this behavior and I like to start with my dog on one side of a big round object such as a garbage can, such that the garbage can is between me and my dog, I peek around the right side of the can and when my dog comes to me I click and treat. Of course this exercise can also be lured if you prefer to train that way. I often label and add a hand signal to this wrapping behavior calling it "pole" or "wrap" if that makes it easier for the dog.

Step 2: Transition from using the garbage can to something smaller, I like to use a jump stanchion. But you can use anything including a very small piece of wood (or anything else) on the ground. Your dog should understand that the "wrap" command can correspond to any object. Use garbage can, chair, jump station, etc ... this makes it easier to fade these props later.

Step 3: Add the Front Chute and the get-it-get-it-front game to the wrap motion. Such that you ask your dog to wrap and than play the game with him and than ask him to front. See: http://dogtrainingadventures.blogspot.com/2009/10/creating-and-using-front-chute.html for more details on Front Chutes.

Putting it together:

When your dog is proficient at all the steps of both pieces (A) and (B) above. It is time to put them together.

Put the jump station (or whatever you dog will wrap) at the end of the broad jump. You should be able to ask your dog to "jump" to "wrap" and than to come play his front game. You should stay at this stage for a while to let your dog build this habit.

I will add video and pictures to this post when I get the chance to make the concepts more clear.