Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Playing with Your Dog

I am always stunned at how many people don't know how to play with their dogs. In my opinion playing with, and knowing how to play with, your dogs is the single most important interaction you can have with them. Play is the foundation for all the training, corrections, and day-to-day interaction I have with my dogs. And I play differently with all three of my dogs because all three are different.
I will discuss play in more details in later post but for now I leave you with this (click on link below):

Play Between People and Dogs

from
Patricia McConnell's blog TheOtherEndOfTheLeash.
She also write several other posts about play as well:
http://www.theotherendoftheleash.com/page/8/

Monday, June 29, 2009

something to think about: Anticipation

I have been thinking about dogs Anticipating commands a lot recently. Mainly because I have been having a lot of trouble recently with Gwyneth anticipating commands in the ring.

Anticipation of commands is a huge problem for some dogs and doesn't seem to be much of a problem for others.

Even though it can be an NQ in the ring Anticipation is not a bad thing. The dog is working hard, thinking, and trying to do the right thing. Also many obedience exercises require anticipation, for example consider a drop on recall:
I set my dog up sitting at my side,
I command stay
I turn to face my dog, the dog MUST NOT anticipate the come command.
I command COME, the dog must come and MUST NOT anticipate the drop.
When I command DROP, the dog must drop and MUST anticipate the wait-in-a-down, and MUST NOT anticipate the next come command.
When I command COME, the dog must come and MUST anticipate the front and MUST anticipate the sit in front, but MUST NOT anticipate the finish.
I command FINISH, the dog must finish and MUST anticipate the sit in heel position.

This jumble of commands you want the dog to anticipate along side commands you do not want the dog to anticipate are a part of every obedience exercise. Think about the auto-sit during the heeling exercises (anticipation wanted), the waiting to be sent on any type of retrieving (anticipation not wanted), sits on front and finishes (anticipation wanted), sits on go-outs (anticipation not wanted).

How you make these distinctions clear to a dog, like Gwyneth, who has a clear understanding of the open exercises and clearly knows what is coming next and in her attempt to do-the-right-thing is anticipating commands, is not clear to me.

What I have been doing:
* When Gwyneth anticipates I stop the exercise, and say something like "oh you are cheating" in playful and fun voice. (no correction - remember by anticipating she is trying to be right).
* Than I try again this time giving lots of praise for not anticipating, such as returning to her and saying "good stay" as I give a food reward.
* I also try to break the exercise up at the points of most anticipation, such as doing the front with no finish.

I am still not sure if these methods are making the situation as clear to her as I would like but I did want to place this thought about anticipation out there for you to consider in your own training.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

about Force

I offer for your consideration this simple rule: If at any time in your training you must resort to force of any kind to achieve the behavior you want, you -and not the dog!- are doing something wrong. ... Take a break, sit down, and figure it out...

--Morgan Spector

I found this quote at: http://www.reddogblog.net/

Friday, June 26, 2009

something to remember


Rely on your relationship, not on your leash.

--Sheila Booth

I found this quote at: http://www.reddogblog.net/

Thursday, June 25, 2009

a TWIST on about-turn foot work by Celeste Meade

I really like Celeste Meade's about turns.
Below is a video of Celeste and Zoom at the 2006 AKC National Obedience Invitational. Heeling starts at 1:45.
Notice how smooth Celeste's about-turns are, she looks as though she is spinning in place.



The key to Celeste's about-turns is a unique type of about-turn foot work (see video below).


Warning: You WILL watch this video multiple times.



Celeste Meade About Turn


Need Help?:

1. Start with Right foot (foot away from dog) and place it such that your Right heel is in front of but in line with your Left toe, and that your Right toe is pointing at a 45 degrees angle (from center line) to the Right.
2. Now with your Left foot, place it such that your Left toe is touching your Right in step (or ball of the Right foot), you will be spinning and stepping back.
3. Shift all you weight to your left foot, lift the toe of your right foot and twist (pivot) on your right heel such that your feet are parallel.
4. Walk normally (now in opposite direction).

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Games for Distance in Obedience

This is intended as a continuation of the post from June 19, 2009 entitled "Considering Distance in Obedience". In this post I have listed some suggestions for games, tricks, and ways to interact with your dog to make them comfortable preforming tasks at various distances (1-3) while still paying attention to you.

(1) Close Distance:
* Hand touch (of paw or nose) best taught using a clicker.
* Maintaining position at side either right or left or between legs. Dog can be oriented either forward or backwards this can be a moving or stationary exercise. Often taught in freestyle.
* Spinning circles both directions in front or on either side of you.
* Tugging with toy; in front, on either side of you, and while dog is between your legs
* Retrieving when toy is thrown straight up in the air. Perhaps you and the dog compete to see who can get to it first (you may be sitting on ground).
* Other freestyle exercises such as dog making a circle around you while you are stationary or moving around with them. This can be done with dog moving either backwards or forward.
Another good one is dog weaving through your legs. Again this can be done either backwards or forwards.
* Calling the dog through a tunnel.
* Position Changes often called Puppy Push ups, where the dog is asked to down, sit, and stand in random order.

(2) Medium Distance, Quick Task:
* Sending the dog through tunnel you running along side (the dog must now shift their attention from you to the tunnel to do this successfully).
* Retrieving thrown toys thrown away from you.
* Cookie toss games. Where you throw a cookie away from you and after eating the cookie the dog is asked to preform an action (such as down) while still separated from you. Or the dog is asked to return and preform an action close to you (such a front).

(3) Long Distance, Complex Task:
* "Find It" Game as detailed in Carol Lea Benjamin's book "Dog Training in 10 minutes".
* Teaching your dog to touch other peoples hands (or parts other parts of their body, the butt is a funny one, though, I must warn you, it is not universally appreciated). Sending them off to do this.
* Teaching your dog the name of a certain object such as "yellow ball" and on the command "yellow ball" your dog will bring that object to you. Be creative. Put "yellow ball" in pile of other objects and impress your friends or teach "get your leash" and save yourself having to get it.
(My friend has her dog pick up all her other dogs food dishes and bring them to her when they have finished eating -- very useful and helpful).
* 101 Things to do with a box: http://www.clickertraining.com/node/167
* Other complex tricks that require the dog to work independently at a distance. For example here is Bridget Carlsen and her dog Hootie demonstrating his Cookie Jar Trick:

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Softball for Dog Training! by Noelle Nasca

Norelle Nasca wrote an interesting article about how tips learned in a softball camp can just as easily be applied to dog training the full article is available at:
http://www.ukcdogs.com/WebSite.nsf/650ca1103048a96085257362006a77a2/ce7e7f1ef7eb49c385257597006bbad8?OpenDocument

Here is an excerpt:

Practice like it's competition; compete like it's practice. In softball, a fellow player telling her teammate, “If this were a real game, I'd have dove for the ball.” The translation for dog training might be, “If you want focused heeling, straight fronts, and square sits, practice them that way! Insist on that precision, only “pay” or reinforce the behaviors you want to see more of. Just because it's practice or training doesn't mean you should settle for less! Stop allowing crooked fronts or sloppy finishes to earn reinforcement! Help your dog get it right, or fix it when it happens!

Don't settle, train it right!

Practice at 110%. Bring your A game! Practice with gusto. Make practice harder than the real thing! Put the challenge into your workout! Make your brain and body expect greater difficulty. The translation for dog training might be, “Add challenge to the exercises your dog knows well.” If he knows how to Sit/Stay in the living room on the rug, practice a Sit/Stay with his leash underneath him, or on some damp grass, or a slightly sloping hill. The point being, make it more difficult than it will be in the formality of competition. That way he'll be so accustomed to these added challenges, when he gets to compete in the ring it will feel like a breeze!

Small Pieces! The stride a pitcher takes often attracts attention. If a pitcher has a great big stride, they often have intense power behind the ball when it is released. Many coaches encourage the girls to take a great big stride (for the glam and the Wow factor) not realizing many of the other components which make a good pitch may be compromised because of this big stride. They want that glamorous, finished look before the pitcher is truly ready to make it all come together and work. It was advised at the clinic to keep the girl's stride short, to get her really comfortable and reliable with her pitches using the short stride, and then add some length. With this approach, if a problem occurs, it is much easier to locate the error and fix it.

The comparison for dog training might be heeling. Heeling was glaring at me with this one! I have often witnessed handlers taking dozens, if not hundreds of steps in heeling, when the reality is, the dog can barely execute proper heel position for three steps. Working forward in small increments of heeling is critical for your dog’s understanding and success. Taking it literally one step at a time, and adding to those steps only when you see the perfection you wish to see as the finished product, will you add another step. If at any time you encounter a problem with focus or proper position, it is much easier to identify it and pinpoint the moment it happens when using the small pieces approach!

Muscle Memory. Practice in batting, pitching, catching. There are specific mechanics a player must perform to get the best results. Practicing over and over again in poor form or incorrect position will only create a bad swing, poor pitches, missed balls, etc. Whatever muscle movement you are working on is precisely what the memory of the muscles adopt. I think the translation for dog training is obvious! If we want our dogs to have nice square sits when we halt in heel, then we must practice those square sits each and every time we train! Create that muscle memory. Make it happen. Point out the position to the dog, lure them there, do what it takes to get their posture as perfect as you wish it to be. Then this is the posture the muscles will assume with ease. Take advantage of the programming that is happening each and every time you perform a repetition. Use it to your advantage; avoid having to go in later and fix the established poor behavior.

Monday, June 22, 2009

a little about Newfie Water Tests

http://www.ncanewfs.org/working/water/

I have always really liked Newfies. They are such sweet, big, lumbering dogs. However there are also many instances on record of Newfies saving lives in water disasters. To encourage these lifesaving instincts, in 1971, a group of enthusiasts developed plans for a water trial consisting of 12 exercises, six each in two divisions, junior and senior. Two years later, the Newfoundland Club of America sanctioned its first official rescue test in Michigan. Over time, the rules have changed, mostly from observing the dog’s natural instincts, but the original concept remains intact.

Junior division exercises are fundamental. The first one, basic control, takes place on dry land. The dog’s willingness and ability to perform its owner’s bidding are tested with heeling, a recall, and a down stay. The five remaining exercises are performed in the water and consist of retrieving a bumper, retrieving a life jacket or cushion, delivering a rope to a swimming steward, towing a boat, and swimming calmly with a handler. Accomplishing all six tasks results in a Water Dog title, issued by the NCA.

More details on Junior division exercises:

* Basic Control

Following the judge's instructions, the handler commands the dog to walk with him without a leash. They will walk together making ring, left, and about turn and stops. the dog is to stay within arm's reach. The dog will than preform a recall, coming to the handler on command. Finally, all dogs, or a group of dogs, will be place in a "down" by their handlers. The handlers remain across the ring from their dogs for one minute, until instructed by the judge to return to their dogs. Note: Dogs with a CD title are excused from this exercise.

* Single Retrieve

The handler throws a boat bumper 30 feet out into the water. The dog has 60 seconds to swim out, retrieve it, and deliver it to his handler who waits on shore.

* Drop Retrieve

Two stewards in a boat row parallel to shore, 50 feet out. One steward silently drops a boat cushion or life jacket onto the water on the far side of the boat. The boat is then rowed away. The handler on shore draws his dog’s attention to the dropped article and sends him to retrieve it. The dog has 90 seconds to swim out, retrieve it, and deliver it to his handler.

* Take a Line

A steward treads water 50 feet from shore, splashing and calling the dog. The handler gives his dog the knotted end of a 75 foot line. The dog takes the line, swims out to the calling steward, and comes close enough that the steward can grasp the line or dog. The dog has 90 seconds to deliver the line to the steward.

* Tow a Boat

A boat is positioned 50 feet from shore with two stewards and an 8-foot line attached to a bumper. One steward splashes and calls the dog. The handler commands his dog to swim out to the boat, take the bumper from the steward, and tow the boat to shore until it touches bottom. The dog has 90 seconds to complete the exercise.

* Swim with Handler

Dog and handler enter the water together and swim out approximately 20 feet beyond swimming depth for the dog. The dog must not swim onto the handler or interfere with him in any way. At the judge’s signal, the handler commands his dog to swim toward shore. The dog turns and tows his free floating handler directly to shore. The dog has 90 seconds to complete the exercise.

In the senior division, the dog must retrieve two articles in the proper order, leap from a boat to fetch a paddle, discriminate between three swimmers and then carry a life ring to the one in distress, retrieve underwater, carry a line from shore to a steward in a boat and then tow that boat to shore, and leap from a boat to save its handler, who has “fallen” overboard. A dog that passes these six exercises adds the title of Water Rescue Dog to its name.

More details on the senior division exercises:

* Directed Retrieve

Two stewards in a boat row across the test area about 50 feet from shore. As they row, one attracts the dog’s attention by splashing, and drops two articles (a life jacket and a boat cushion) about 50 feet apart. The judge instructs the handler to send his dog to a specific article. The handler sends his dog to that article. The dog retrieves it and brings it to his handler on shore. The dog is sent to retrieve the second article. The dog has 3 minutes to complete both retrieves.

* Retrieve Off a Boat

The dog and handler ride out on a boat about 50 feet from shore. The handler throws a paddle or oar 10 feet from the boat. The dog has 90 seconds to jump from the boat, make the retrieve, bring the oar back to the handler or steward and relinquish it.

* Life Ring

Three stewards enter the water and swim about 75 feet out and 30 feet apart. One feigns distress, splashing and calling; the other two remain silent and still. The handler gives his dog the knotted end of a line attached to a life ring. The dog must take the line voluntarily. He must then swim directly to the person in distress, coming close enough that the steward can grab the life ring or the dog. The dog then tows the steward to shore. The exercise must be completed within 2 minutes.

* Underwater Retrieve

Handler and dog enter the water together walking to a point where the water is elbow depth for the dog. The handler throws an article of his choice 3 feet away from the dog parallel to shore. The article must sink immediately. The dog has 3 minutes to retrieve the article and return it to his handler. He may do so by submerging his head or pawing it to shallower water and retrieving it. The handler may throw the article at elbow depth as often as needed within the 3 minute limit.

* Take a Line/Tow a Boat

Two stewards wait in a boat at least 75 feet from shore. One calls the dog. The handler gives his dog a short line with a bumper attached. The dog may take either end of the line voluntarily. He then swims out to the boat, coming close enough for the steward to grab the line. The dog must then pull the boat to shore until it touches bottom. He has 2 minutes to complete the exercise.

* Rescue

Dog and handler ride in a boat to at least 50 feet from shore. At the signal from the judge, the handler falls or jumps from the boat. The dog must remain in the boat until called. He has 30 seconds to voluntarily enter the water without landing on the handler. He must swim directly to his handler and tow him back to the boat or to shore. 90 seconds is allowed to complete the entire exercise.

Created over the past 3 years by the Working Dog Committee of the NCA, the newest division is Water Rescue Dog Excellent, or WRDX. This test is for the elite working dog, who shows a drive and stamina and instinctive working ability beyond most Newfoundlands. The six exercises consist of searching for an abandoned boat, and returning it to land; rescuing multiple victims from the side of a boat; rescue of an unconscious victim; a rescue of a victim under a capsized boat; delivering a line to shore from a stranded boat; and taking a line to multiple drowning victims. Dogs who complete all 6 exercises earn the title of WRDX.

More detailed summary of Water Rescue Dog Excellent exercises:

* Search for Abandoned Boat

A steward will row out 75ft. from shore and will drop an anchor from inside the boat. The steward will gently place a floating eight-foot line with plastic or canvas boat bumper attached into the water on the seaward side of the boat. The handler will send the dog to search for the line. The dog will tow the boat to shore by either the boat bumper or the line attached to it, and will beach the boat.

* Multiple Person Rescue

The dog will board the boat and will travel with the handler while the boat is rowed out and anchored into position 150 feet from shore. While the boat is being rowed out into position the stewards will swim out to their designated locations. The victims will all begin to indicate that rescue is needed by splashing and calling for help. The handler will send the dog from the boat and to rescue the victims. The dog will swim to each victim. It is up to the dog to determine the order in which each victim is rescued. The dog shall swim close enough so that each victim is able to take hold of the dog Once the dog has made an actual pick up of a victim, they are returned to the handler at the boat, after each delivery the dog will be sent for the next victim. The dog will tow each victim back to the boat, where the handler waits on the platform.

* Rescue of an Unconscious Victim

The steward will swim away from shore into position at the 75ft. mark. The handler will command the dog to go to the steward’s rescue. Upon reaching the victim, the dog MUST take either of the protected arms or hands, or the life jacket of the victim into its mouth, using a gentle hold, and will tow the victim to almost wading depth for the dog. The handler will enter the water to assist the victim and the dog as the dog is returning with the victim in tow. When the handler has a hand on the victim, the judge will signal completion of the exercise.

* Rescue of Victim with Capsized Boat

At a signal from the judge, the steward in the inflatable raft will yell as he/she capsizes the raft, attracting the attention of the dog. The handler will command the dog to rescue the victim. Upon reaching the raft, the dog will swim in under the raft, whereupon the victim will immediately take hold of the dog. The dog will then exit from under the raft in any direction. The dog will tow the victim to just prior to wading depth for the dog, at which time, the handler will touch hands with the victim.

* Delivery of Line from Stranded Boat

The handler will direct the dog to take the line and then to jump from the boat. The dog will be directed by the handler to deliver the line to the designated steward waiting on the shoreline. However, the handler will retain the end of the line on the boat. The steward will encourage the dog to come to him/her once the dog is in the water and beginning to swim towards shore. The handler will feed the remaining line out to the dog swimming towards shore. The dog will deliver the line to the steward waiting on shore. The exercise will be complete when the dog delivers the line to the steward.

* Rescue of Multiple Victims

Two stewards will be rowed out 75ft. from shore. The two stewards will quietly exit the boat, one at a time from the platform. They will then move to the seaward side of the boat, where they will hold onto the lip of the boat. The stewards will call for help in a manner realistic with being stranded and as if their boat had overturned. The dog will enter the water and will swim directly to the boat. The dog is to swim close enough to one of the victims for that victim to reach out and to take hold of the dog while still having hold of the side of the boat. The dog may bring in one or both victims at the same time. returning towards shore with a victim (s) in tow. When the handler has taken hold of the hands of the second victim the exercise is finished.




Friday, June 19, 2009

Considering Distance in Obedience

Obedience exercises can be divided into 3 types depending on the distance away from you the dog must travel and how much they must do while they are out there.

(1) Close Exercises: The dog is expected to be comfortable working close to you (effectively in having you in his space), or having someone else in his space (as with the stand for exam).
(2) Medium Distance Quick Exercises: While separated from you by a "medium distance" (usually about 10 feet) the dog must feel comfortable enough to preform one single quick exercise.
(3) Long Distance Complex Exercises: While separated from you by a "long distance" (usually the full length of the ring) the dog must feel comfortable enough to preform a whole series of exercise that may take some thought and patience.

Now lets exam the obedience exercises and determine if they fit in the category 1, 2, or 3.

Novice:
Heel on Leash + figure 8 = 1
Stand for Exam = 1 (must feel comfortable with someone else close to them)
Heel off Leash = 1
Recall = 1 (though you leave the dog at a distance the object of the exercise is for them to quickly return to you).

Open:
Heel off Leash + figure 8 = 1
Drop On Recall = 2 (dog must be willing to stop, at a distance from you, and preform another action)
Retrieve on Flat = 2 (dog must leave your side and preform another action)
Retrieve on Flat = 2
Broad Jump = 2 (again, though they are not far away from you, the dog must none-the-less do something in another direction before returning to you).

Utility:
Signals = 3 (dog must be willing to preform a series of exercises while separated from you)
Scent Discrimination = 3 (dog must be willing to preform a complex task that takes patience and concentration and time while separated from you)
Gloves = 3 (dog must be willing to preform a task that takes some thought)
Moving Stand for Exam = 1
Directed Jumping = 3 (go-outs .... need I say more)

Summary:
Novice: 1,1,1,1 average=1
Open: 1,2,2,2 average=1.75
Utility: 3,3,3,1,3 average=2.6

From the pattern above it is obvious that Novice tests for how well the dog is willing to work near you, and to let other people near them, Open tests how comfortable your dog is to leave your side to complete one simple task when asked, and Utility tests weather your dog can be comfortable while preforming a whole series of complex exercises away from you.

Things to Keep in Mind:
I believe distance is a important component of obedience to recognize and train for.

* Think about when and where you are asking your dog to work and how you are telling your dog that they are no longer working (never let distance be the way you signal to your dog they are no longer working). Dogs have a definite sense of when they are working and when they are not. How many times have you notice a wonderful working dog that starts sniffing and running around once the handler is separated from the dog by a large distance in the agility ring. Sure this may be stress on the dogs part but it also may be that the dog is never asked to work at that distance. The "invisible leash" between dog and handler is broken or doesn't extend to that distance. The handler being 10 feet away, say, may actually signal to the dog that it is play-time, since that is the only time the handler is 10 feet away from the dog.

* Think about WHERE you are rewarding your dog. If all praise, toys, treats, etc... are given to your dog close to you (from your hands or mouth) then close to you becomes a WONDERFUL place to be. This is fine for Novice, in fact essential for Novice. But as you being moving through Open and Utility start thinking about ways to make working AWAY FROM YOU also a comfortable and rewarding situation. For example: Run out and treat your dog the moment they pick up the dumbbell out where you threw it sometimes, Give them treats at the gate or even through the gate for go-outs, throw a toy for them after the sit in the Utility signal exercise, you get the idea. You can run out to the spot where the dog is working and give treats from your hand, you can throw a toy, you can throw a toy containing treats (food tube or any number of toys with treat pockets), you can release the dog to a toy or sealed container containing food that is located in another part of the ring (such as a small tupperware container, important that it is sealed so dog doesn't release and reward themselves), be creative.

* Think about extending your connection with your dog (the distance at which you still have their attention). When I show Novice I walk my dog on a 6 foot (or even 4 foot leash) as often as I can (certainly at the show site, and likely on all walks the week prior to the show). I get them use to defaulting to being and staying close to me. When I show in Open or Utility on the other hand I walk my dogs on a flexi-leash (or no leash when safe). I make sure my control over them and their connection with me will stand the test of that distance.

* Think about your day to day interaction with your dogs and the games you play with them. Think about how you can add new games to extend the distance at which they are comfortable working. There was a wonderful article written by Rachel Tabor Flatley for Dec 2008 Clean Run Magazine called "Think Outside the Box and the Ring". In this article Rachel writes "what you do (and don't do) outside the ring enters the ring with you". Rachel goes on to talk about warming up your dog keeping in mind what will be expected of them in the ring. For example if a lot of sends and lateral distance is required on course, warm your dog up by allowing them to approach the practice jump with some independence (loose leash, walking at a distance from you, or walking ahead of you), and than practice sends to the practice jump. Play retrieving games (building the dogs confidence being sent away from you) such as sending the dog away from you and than throwing a toy as a reward. If on the other hand the course requires lots of tight sequences that require the dog to have lots of handler focus, than make sure you walk your dog to the practice jump on a short leash with lots of focus on you, and do some tight focused jumps or figure 8 over the jump. Play, handler focused games, like hand touches. What Rachel is talking about in this article is developing a proper warm up routine with the agility course you are about to run in mind. But I think that this can easily be extended into obedience exercises that require your dog to be comfortable working at different distances (as we enumerated above) and can be extended to your day to day play and interaction with your dog. For example if you are preparing for Novice play lots of handler focused, being-near-me-is-a-good-place-to-be games. If you are preparing for Open play lots of going-away-is-fun-games such as retrieving, sending out to a toy, and give your dog more independence on leash. When preparing for Utility your dog should be totally comfortable working away from you while still being able to feel connected to you and paying attention to you. Consider teaching tricks that require your dog to work away from you, or play find-it-games, or teach your dog to back away from you (the further they get the more reward they get and they are paying attention to you all the time). Give your dogs lots of independence and walk them off leash when safe. Make sure you teach the dog that being 40' from you is still a place where they can pay attention and work and not a signal that they are allowed to complete disassociation from you and do their own thing or a reason to panic.

In a later post I will give some suggestions for games and tricks you can teach to help your dog become comfortable working at each different level 1-3.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

National Amateur Retriever Championships 2009

The 2009 National Amateur Retriever Championships are in full swing. They last from June 14-20. This year they are located around Virginia, Minnesota.

I have enjoyed following the coverage at:
http://www.working-retriever.com/report/report.html

There are two retriever championships held per year. The National Open Retriever Championships held in November and the National Amateur Retriever Championships held in June. The site of the National championships is changed to a different location in each of the four time zones every four years. (Amateur means that the dog is being handled by their owner as opposed to a professional)

To qualify for either of the two National Championships is a difficult thing to do. Qualifying requires the dog to have a 5-point win plus two other points during the year preceding the annual championship stakes. Points earned toward qualifying for the National Open Championships must be earned in the Open All-Age Stake. Points earned toward qualifying for the National Amateur Championships may be earned in the Amateur All-Age stake or the Open All-Age stake if the dog is handled by an Amateur handler.

Retriever field trials are very competitive and earning points requires winning. A 5-point win means the dog won first place, for the two additional points which are needed, the dog could have won a third place (which is worth 2 points). Alternatively a fourth place is worth 0.5 points, so 4, fourth place finishes would also make up the additional 2 points needed. Just to put this into perspective, to attain a Field Champion title a dog must have earned ten points in Open All-Age stake, five points of which must be from a first place. So qualifying for the National Championships is nearly as hard as earning a Field Champion Title!

This event brings together 122 of the top retrievers in the nation. It is an amazing thing to witness (even if it is only on-line). Amateur handlers (in the case of this event) handle their dogs in land and water retrieving tests over an entire week.
Dogs that pass the day's tests are "called back" for another day of tests, slowly the field of amazing dogs shrinks till in the end only one dog wins -- can't wait to see who it will be this year. . .

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Handling For Teamwork by Patty Ruzzo

http://www.schutzhundvillage.com/_patty02.html

  • Clear, concise, consistent handling is reinforcing to your dog.
  • Body Posture, facial expression, verbal tones, energy level, positive expectations and clear, recognizable signal and verbal cues all play a part.
  • Attention starts with the handler. Trainers who are totally focused on their canine partner will receive reciprocal attention from that dog.
  • Handler sets him/herself up first and checks own body position for straight alignment before expecting perfection from the dog.
  • Handlers feet in line and pointed forward, shoulders over hips.
  • Soft focus on floor in front of handler. See dog in peripheral vision.
  • Walk, think, focus on straight lines.
  • Give verbal and/or signal cues before commencing heeling, pivoting, and stays.
  • Shorten stride length on all turns, halts, and curves of the figure 8.
  • Double track (not single track) when doing left and right turns, the slow pace, and on both curves of the figure 8.
  • Take responsibility! The dog is exactly where you put him.

Smile and breathe!



Tuesday, June 16, 2009

History of Obedience and Evolution of Obedience Exercises

Here is a link to an old obedience video (1929):

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=10104

Here is a link to an old practice session of a dog training club, taking place at a bar (1954):

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=47644

Both of the above take place in Britain, where obedience competition pre-dates American obedience competitions. Some things are strikingly familiar: the auto halt sits, the heeling in a circle, the hand position while heeling, the front and finishes, alas not the beer drinking at the end of class.
Watching these videos started me thinking about the history of obedience and how obedience exercises have changed over the years. I couldn't find much on the history of British dog obedience and even less on the evolution of obedience exercises in Britain so here instead is a short history of AKC obedience and the evolution of AKC obedience exercises:

Mrs. Helen Whitehouse Walker is credited as the founder of American obedience. To prove the intelligence of her Standard Poodles, Mrs. Walker created a series of obedience exercises modeled on the ones she had seen while traveling in England. In December 1935 she submitted a pamphlet of procedures to the AKC, and three months later the Board of Directors approved it. In April 1936, AKC published the first official "Regulations and Standard for Obedience Test Field Trials". The first obedience test was held in October 1933 in Mount Kisco, New York.

The concept behind obedience training was to develop a very close working relationship between human beings and dogs, while demonstrating the usefulness and enthusiasm of dogs.

* In the 1930s when obedience competition in America first began the exercises were as follows:

Novice exercises were:
* Heeling On Leash

* Heeling Off Leash

* Recall

* One Minute Sit

* Three Minute Down

All of there were performed as is done today but with different point values totaling 100 points.

Open exercises were:
* Heeling On Leash
* Heeling Off Leash

* Recall (done as in Novice)
* Retrieve On Flat

* Speak on Command

* Long Jump
(often called Broad Jump)
* Long Sit
* Long Down

totaling 250 points.

Utility exercise were:
* 440 yard tracking test which was usually held on a different day

* Scent Discrimination (on three articles of wood, metal, and leather)
* Seek Back exercise (see description below)
* Retrieve over a 42-inch obstacle carrying a two pound dumbbell
(the dog was allowed to climb the jump going and coming and
it was legal to wrap the bit of the dumbbell with cord or leather. This was requested by a group of Sporting Dog enthusiasts who claimed that carrying a wooden bit would cause a dog to become hard-mouthed).
* Group stand for exam.
Total Utility score was 400 points with tracking worth over half of these points.

Seek Back Exercise:
This Utility exercise was largely heeling and started with the handler carrying a leather glove standing with his dog sitting in heel position at a spot designated by the judge. The judge would ask "Are you ready?" and order forward. The handler and dog would then execute a Novice heeling pattern as ordered by the judge ending with a halt. At some point in the heeling the judge would order "drop it" and the handler would drop the glove. At the end of the heel pattern the judge would order, "Send Your Dog" and the handler would would be send the dog to retrieve the glove. As the dog was sent the handler could point in the direction of the trail. The dog would retrieve the glove, sit in front, and on further command finish.

Early changes to the obedience exercises including:
* Adding the Stand for Examination to the Novice Exercises. The Novice Stand for Exam was originally done on leash.

*Many people objected to teaching a dog to bark and the "Speak on Command" exercise was dropped from Open in the 1940s. (You can see the "Speak on Command" exercise being preformed at the end of the second video above)

* Tracking was dropped as a Utility requirement and was made a separate event with its own title in 1946.

* After World War II the Hurdle and Bar Exercise was added to the Utility Class.

The Hurdle and Bar Exercise:
This exercise was executed quite similar to how the broad jump is today. Only it took the full length of the ring, and instead of a broad jump two jumps (hurdle and bar) were used. On the long center line of the ring one jump (either hurdle jump or bar jump) was placed about one-third of the distance and the other jump at the two-third position. The handler with dog sitting at heel was positioned any place between one jump and the ring barrier. The judge would order, "Leave your dog" and the handler would walk to a point at the side and midway between the two jumps facing the opposite side of the ring. The judge would order, "Send your dog" and the handler would give a jump command and the dog would jump the first jump. After the dog landed the handler would give a command to take the second jump. When the dog was in midair over the second jump, the handler would do a pivot and the dog would come front. The dog then finished on command.

* In 1949 the Hurdle and Bar exercise was changed to the Directed Jumping Exercise.

* In 1966 the Seek Back exercise was eliminated. The Directed Retrieve exercise was developed to take its place.

* In 1966 the wooden articles were eliminated from the Scent Discrimination exercise.

* Retrieve over high jump was moved from Utility to Open.

* Heeling on Leash was eliminated from Open and figure 8 exercises were added. On leash in Novice and Off leash in Open.

* The Novice Stand for Examination was changed from On Leash to Off Leash. Novice people were having a great deal of trouble handling the leash and many of them were getting tangled when leaving the dog causing the dog to inadvertently move. Many judges would re-judge these errors. On the other hand some professional handler would use a huge leash that was one to two inches wide and ten or twelve feet long and when they left the dog the leash would be on the ground, this had the effect of ground-tying the dog.

* In 1966 the bar on the bar jump was changed from a round to a square bar. The flat surface of the square bar made it much more stable.

* The Recall in Open was replaced with a Drop on Recall.

* The Signal Exercises were added to Utility.

* In 1973 the order the the Utility exercises were changed so that they no longer began with Scent Discrimination and began with Signal Exercise instead. Making this change was a matter of some debate and discussion because many people believed that if the handler moved about the ring their scent would contaminate the area making scent work impossible.

* High in Trial and High Combined Awards were instituted.

* The Directed Retrieve Exercise was changed by requiring it to begin with the handler and dog facing away from the gloves, and than to turn in place to face the gloves before sending the dog as is done today.

* In 1977 the OTCH was added. The first dog to earn the OTCH title was Tonka a Golden Retriever owned and handled by Russell Klipple of Pennsylviania. The following day Pauline Czarnecki and her Golden Retriever, Cicsco finished the second OTCH awarded.

* In 1988 the jump height was lowered from 1 and 1/2 dogs shoulder height to 1 and 1/4 dogs shoulder height.

* In 1988 the Group Stand for Exam was eliminated from Utility. The exercises stared by positioning up to fifteen dogs sitting at heel along the center-line of the ring and the judge would order "Stand Your Dogs" then "Leave your Dogs". The handlers would stand their dogs and give the stay command, go to the opposite side of the ring and face their dog. The judge would approach the dog from the front and examine it as in conformation and after examining all dogs would order handlers "Back to Your Dogs". The time the dog had to stand was a minimum of three minutes but slow judges often required over ten minutes. This exercise was replaced by the Moving Stand and Examination.

* The UDX was added.

* In 1992 the Halt in Fast and Halt in Slow were eliminated such that today all halts are done in Normal Pace.

* The jump heights were lowered again.

* In 2002, Hobi, a Shetland Sheepdog, earned 1,235 OTCH points to be the top OTCH-pointed dog in the country. As of this writing, 2009, Hobi still holds the record from the most lifetime OTCH points earned with 15,229.

* I find it interesting that in the minutes from the 2003 obedience advisory committee it was noted that they had received several letters requesting letting non-pure breeds compete in AKC obedience. That 2003 committee did not discuss that topic, but as of this writing, 2009, AKC has announced that next year, 2010, mix bred dogs will be allowed to start competing, albeit, on a limited bases and in separate classes, in AKC obedience.

* Today there are 2,000 AKC obedience trials held each year with 100,000 dogs competing.

Most of the information above is taken from a series of articles that Bob Self , Sr. wrote for Front&Finish from Jan 2006 to Aug 2006. Some of the information comes from the AKC website.

I also looked, briefly, at the history of Schutzhund: The first Schutzhund competitions were held in Germany in the early 1900s. Schutzhund exercises were drastically changed in 2004 in response to political pressure in Germany. The first Schutzhund competition in America was held in 1970 in California. On and off there has been talk about adding Schutzhund to AKC but to date that has not happened.

Below is another old video, this time of a Schutzhund trial taking place in Germany in 1936


Monday, June 15, 2009

a little about French Ring Sport

Ring sport started in France and was introduced to North America in 1986.

Any dog including mixes can compete in French Ring sport.

The North American Ring sport Association (N.A.R.A.) is the governing organization and maintains a liaison with the parent French organization which operates under the auspices of the S.C.C. (Societe Centrale Canine), the French equivalent of the AKC. Titles earned in any country earned are recognized internationally.

Ring Sport Titles are Brevet, Ring I, Ring 2, Ring 3.

The Brevet is an entry level test that must be passed in order to go on to Ring I. Once this "entry test" title is earned, the same dog may not compete for it again. This brief, 15 minute test is very difficult to pass. The entrant must earn 80 of the 100 available points including 80% of the available points for each of the 30-point protection exercises.

Ring I, II and III are progressively more difficult both in the number and complexity of the exercises as well as the intensity of the opposition to the dog presented by the decoy. To progress from Ring I to Ring II, the dog must twice earn scores of 160 or better out of 200, trialing under two different judges and two different decoys. To progress from Ring II to Ring III, the dog must again attain two qualifying scores--this time 240 points out of 300 with different judges and decoys.

Each year in June there is a Championship trial in France called "Coupe de France". Approximately 25 dogs are invited to compete based upon their scores in three highly competitive selective trials for their region. To compete in the selectives, they have to have passed with a certain score in 7 different pre-selective trials under different judges and decoys. Two awards are given to the dogs at the end of the "Coupe": Champion of France in Ring is given to the dog that has the highest score totaling the scores of the selectives and the "Coupe"; the other is winner of the "Coupe." The competition is exceedingly demanding when you consider that France has over 700 ring sport clubs and over 2,000 dogs start the trial year hoping to make it to the championships.

In North America, there are two annual championships, one held by NARA, the North American Ring Association and the other by the CRA, the Canadian Ring Association.

Ring sport trials are divided into three sections: Jumps, obedience, and protection.

The Jumps always come first and the competitor can choose the order in which the jumps will be performed. The obedience follows immediately after the jumps, and the order of the exercises is drawn ahead of time. Directly after the obedience with no pause comes the protection, the order of which has also been chosen by lot. At the Ring III level, the dog and handler perform for about 45 minutes with no break, except perhaps drink of water for the dog.

JUMPS

Sometimes you will see a competitor attempt a particular jump up to three times. He may do this if the dog refuses or misses, or he may do it when the dog is successful so that he can earn more points with a higher or longer jump. The minimum size on the hurdle is .9 meters with the maximum height being 1.2 meters. Minimum length on the long jump is a remarkable 3 meters or 9.75 feet up to a maximum of 4.5 meters or 14.62'. The minimum height on the palisade, or vertical wall, is 1.7m or 5.5'. The maximum is 7.5 feet.

The bigger the jump, the more points can be earned on it.

Summary of Jump Exercises:
* High Jump: dog jumps a hurdle on command, then does a return jump on command and comes to a heel position by the handler, minimum hurdle height 0.9m for 8 pts (1m = 39.37in)
* Palisade: dog jumps and climbs over a wooden wall, minimum height 1.7m, then does a return jump and returns to handler
* Long Jump: dog jumps a pvc/metal "key" long jump on the ground, minimum length 3m

OBEDIENCE

Ring sport obedience can appear deceptively simple because it does not demand the rigorous style of Schutzhund or top level AKC competition. This is because it is very goal oriented rather than style conscious. One tightening of the leash -- whether it is for forging or lagging--and a score of zero is given for heeling. One piece of food eaten, or even picked up, touched or licked on the food refusal exercise and the score is zero--out of a possible 10 or 20 points depending upon the level of competition.

Summary of Obedience Exercises:
* Heel on a leash: in a pattern determined by the judge with multiple stops and starts, left and right turns
* Heel with muzzle: heeling off leash while the dog wears a muzzle in a pattern determined by the judge with multiple stops and starts, left and right turns
* Long sit/down: done with the handler out of sight, the dog stays in a pre-drawn position 1 min.
* Food refusal: dog is thrown 4 pieces of food (usually meat or cheese) while on a down stay with the handler out of sight. Dog must not eat the food, and if it is "accidentally" thrown into dogs mouth, he must immediately spit it out. The field is also baited with 6 pieces of food, in strategic locations (i.e. by blinds, jumps, area dog runs over during send away, etc.)
* Positions: the dog is told to sit, stand and down in a pre-drawn order. the handler is 18m away. points are lost for creeping forward during the positions, or failure to perform a position
* Thrown Retrieves: the handler throws the item at least 5m, on command the dog retrieves the item and presents it to the handler. the retrieve object can be any object such as a glove, wallet, rolled up sock, glasses case, etc.
* Unseen Retrieve: handler and dog are heeling, handler drops the object on the opposite side from the dog, a similar object is placed next to the retrieve object, at a signal dog and handler turn around, and dog is sent to retrieve the object. points lost for mouthing object, 0 points if dog retrieves wrong object
* Seen Retrieve: the handler drops the object on the same side as the dog and the dog immediately picks it up, runs completely in front of the handler who then stops walking, then dog returns the object to the handler
* Send Away: the dog is told to run in a straight line away from the handler until called, then it returns to the handler

PROTECTION

The protection phase is divided into attacks and exercises. The scoring is based on elements of the dog's control and the efficiency and "solidness" of the dog's bitework against a decoy who is trying to make the dog lose as may points as possible.

ATTACKS

The attacks in Ring III are the face attack (decoy facing dog), the fleeing attack, the attack with revolver and guard, and the stopped attack.

In the FACE ATTACK the handler commands the dog to "stay" behind the line of departure. The decoy, beginning about 10 yards from the dog, threatens the dog, hoping to make him break his stay. He then runs downfield of the dog to 30 to 50 yards, where he turns and agitates again. Upon hearing the judge's horn, the handler sends his dog. The decoy agitates the whole while, attempting to frighten or slow the down the dog. He may then attempt to side step the dog to make him miss his entry or he may create a fast and threatening " barrage " with the noisy, split bamboo stick, hoping to hold the dog off. When the dog bites, the decoy fights him, trying to intimidate him into quitting, losing his bite or getting so angry that he won't let go on command. After 15 seconds, the judge signals the handler to out and recall his dog. The decoy freezes AFTER the "out" command or whistle. The dog has 30 seconds to return to his owner. The only exception to this is the face attack in Brevet, when the handler has an option of having his dog out and guard.

The STOPPED ATTACK is performed the same as the Face Attack except that the decoy now wants to make the dog bite and may step toward the dog instead of trying to get away or intimidate. The handler tries to call the dog back as close to the decoy as possible to earn maximum points. The intriguing thing about the stopped attack is that it is only scored after the scoring of the face attack. This prevents weak dogs that would rather stop than bite from getting full points.

The FLEEING ATTACK is done with the same procedure as the face and stopped attacks except that the decoy runs away and tries to escape the dog as much as possible.

The REVOLVER ATTACK is begun like the face attack, but the decoy has a gun instead of a stick. The decoy runs to 40 meters and awaits the dog. He must fire the two shots before the dog bites, once at 12 meters and again at 7 meters. After a 15 second fight, the handler tells the dog to out and guard. The judge will indicate that the decoy should escape, the dog bites to control the escape (losing 1 point for every meter the decoy escapes), the handler outs the dog for another guard and escape. Then the judge indicates that the handler should go to disarm the decoy, after which he tells his dog to heel away with him.

Summary of Protection Attacks:
* Face Attack: the dog is told to attack a decoy who is facing him about 40m away behaving in a menacing fashion, with out/recall
* Fleeing Attack: the dog is told to attack a decoy who is running away, with out/recall after the bite/fight
* Attack with Gun: the dog attacks a decoy who is firing a gun, twice during the attack, and once after the bite. After the bite/fight, the decoy freezes, the dog lets go and guards the decoy. The decoy tries to escape twice, the dog bites each time, then the handler disarms the decoy and heels the dog away.
* Stopped Attack: This is done exactly like the face attack, with the decoy acting menacing and the dog being told to attack. When the dog is 1 to 4m away, the handler calls the dog who returns to the handler without biting the decoy. Points are based on the distance from the decoy when the dog is recalled, with 0 points if the dog bites. the handler must behave in every way exactly the same up until the recall command for the call off and face attack (EX sneeze during one, you better for the other)

EXERCISES

The exercises include the defense of handler, the search and bark with escort, and the guard of object. The DEFENSE OF HANDLER requires that the decoy approach from one end of the field, the dog and handler from the other; they meet, shake hands and converse, say "good-bye", pass each other, then the decoy sneaks up behind the handler to aggress him. The dog is permitted to bite at the moment of the aggression. He fights for 10 seconds, is called out, he guards automatically, and then is recalled. In the Brevet only, the decoy shoots a handgun two times when the dog bites.

The SEARCH AND BARK begins with the handler and the dog off the field while the decoy hides in any one of up to 7 blinds, according to the judge's directions. The dog and handler return to the field where the dog is commanded to search and bark. The search is free style with a time limit of 2, 2.5 or 3 minutes depending upon the size of the field. When he locates the decoy, the dog must bark, but not bite until the decoy escapes, shooting his gun. After the dog controls the first escape, and is called out, the decoy escapes and shoots again. After the dog controls this second escape, the handler will come to disarm the decoy. Then, leaving the dog to guard the decoy, the handler goes about 3 meters behind the decoy to begin the escort. During the escort, the dog stays with the decoy to control the 2 to 3 escapes the decoy will attempt. For every step (1 meter) the decoy can escape without being "well in grasp", the dog loses points.

Probably the best-known Ring exercise is the GUARD OF OBJECT. Here the handler leaves his dog alone with a large basket to guard from the decoy's attempts to steal it. The dog must stay with the object and only bite the decoy when the decoy comes within one meter of the object. When the decoy is bitten, he pauses as still as possible, for 5 seconds, after which he tries to go away from the object. The dog must automatically let go his bite within one meter and return to the object.

This is the most advanced, complex and difficult exercise to teach the dog. It requires so much self control from the dog, yet at the same time so much drive to bite. The balance in training is supremely difficult to achieve, especially considering that the decoy is watching for any weak spots in the training, any slight lapses of vigilance, hesitations in the dog's decision making, etc., in order to steal the object.

From the decoy's point of view it is a real test of his skills...his ability to read the dog, his knowledge of training techniques, his speed, his subtlety. It would be easier for him if he simply were allowed to try to lure the dog away from the object by begging to be bitten, but he is not permitted to do that. He must honestly try to take the object, either with his hand or his foot.

Summary of Protection Exercises:
* Defense of Handler: handler, dog and decoy approach each other and have a short conversation, then continue walking. the decoy turns around and comes up behind the handler, and as soon as the decoy "attacks" (obvious "hit" on handler) the handler, the dog bites the decoy. After the dog is told to out, he guards the decoy until recalled. the dog must stay with the handler until the attack, most dogs are taught to heel facing backwards for this exercise
* Search, Hold, and Bark with Escort: The dog finds the decoy who is hidden in one of six blinds, and barks to indicate the decoy has been found. The decoy attempts to escape, while firing a gun, and the dog stops the decoy by biting. The decoy attempts another escape and fires the gun, dog stops decoy by biting. Handler outs dog, then disarms the decoy and retreats at least 3m. The dog escorts the decoy to a designated spot, preventing two more escape attempts by biting. The dog has no set pattern to run the blinds in as long as he finds the decoy in the allotted time.
* Guard of Object: the dog is told to guard an object, and the handler goes to a place out of sight. The handler does not participate in any way again, until it is time to retrieve his dog. The decoy tries three times to steal the object, and the dog stops the decoy each time by biting. as soon as the dog bites, the decoy must freeze for 5 seconds, however if the dog lets go then rebites, the decoy can begin to move. As soon as the decoy begins to move away from the object, the dog lets go to remain close to the object he is guarding. Points are lost for biting to soon, allowing the decoy to move or completely steal the object, being drug away from the object, etc.

You don't "fail" at Ring III, you receive either an Excellent, Very Good, Good or other rating. However to call your dog a Ring III dog, you must score at least 320 out of 400 possible points. If you score less then 240 two times in one year then you must go back to Ring II and re-qualify before you can move up to Ring III again.

When competing in Ring, the dog has no collar or leash on at any time except during the heel on leash. No food rewards or physical corrections are allowed at any time while competing. Also, excessive praise or petting will result in a loss of general outlook points. Points for an exercise will be lost for multiple commands, incorrect commands, or failure of the dog or handler to perform the exercise correctly. Control is emphasized from the moment the dog/handler team walks onto the field, until they leave at the end.

The information above comes from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_Ring and from the links below.

American Ring Sport Organizations:
North American Ring Association:
http://www.ringsport.org/index.html
U.S. MondioRing Association:
http://www.usmondioring.org

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Motivational Quote

Motivational Quote posted to the Obed-Comp yahoo list:

"People often say that motivation doesn't last. Well, neither does bathing -- that's why we recommend it daily."

Friday, June 12, 2009

Go-out - just the Turn & Sit part

The Go-out is a hard exercise to teach and even a harder exercise perfect. Dogs are situational and it takes a lot of work to teach a dog to generalize this exercise such that they are comfortable preforming it in different places to different walls, ring gates, etc...

Often, however, trainers are so worried about the go-out itself that they neglect the "turn & sit" part of this exercise. And yet without a well taught and cleanly executed "turn & sit" you can derail your entire go-out effort.

Teaching the turn&sit:

I am not a big fan of the "scream your dog's name and when they turn back to look at you firmly command SIT" method. I think this method does little to teach your dog anything and nothing to explain to them what type of behavior you are looking for.

What are you looking for?:
(1) Turn in place
(2) Sit quickly facing directly back to you
(3) No steps forward

Six other methods to teach the go-out turn & sit:

(1) Spin -- You can teach your dog a "spin" command, such that you will command "Fido Spin" rather than "Fido sit". You will teach the "spin" independent of the go-out itself. You will teach your dog to go from a standing position to turning 180 degrees and sitting, upon the command "spin". You can start teaching this by luring this behavior with a cookie, but remember that the cookie must be faded and that it is important that the dog understand that "spin" means turn 180 degrees and has nothing else to do with your position (or position of your hand--- when luring). I really like the results of the "spin" technique. The handler says "Fido Spin" and the dog spins in place (sometimes even jumping up and around) and lands in a beautiful straight sit. (Now an admission: For what it is worth, I tried and failed to teach Rosco to turn&sit using this technique. I was never able to fade my body position and hand motion completely and get a totally independent turn&sit from him. This should in no way discourage you from trying this method if you would like to, it is just something I felt compelled to admit.)

(2) Quick Turn & sits -- You can teach your dog what you expect of them when you say "Fido sit" but physically turning them and sitting them facing toward you. For example as your dog is walking away from you, any old time at home, you can say "Fido sit" as you reach over and grab their collar (preferably under their neck) and quickly turn them around and sit them facing you. Make sure you give lots of praise. You can make this a really fun game that the dog will enjoy. This method will build the habit of turning quickly in a small circle and sitting facing you. It will also help the dog understand that the "Fido sit" command can come at any time and they must quickly preform it no matter what else they are doing. I know many handlers who have used this technique with much success.

(3) Cookie Toss -- I learned this method from Adele Yunck and have used it with my dogs. I have found it especially useful to avoid and eliminate steps forward on the turn&sit. You start with a hand full of cookies and you throw one away from you (I also say "get it" at the same time), as soon as your dog has eaten the cookie you command "Fido sit", if your dog doesn't spin to face you or takes any steps toward you, mark the incorrect action ("oops" or other word you use) and walk toward your dog such that they are sitting in front of you. I find that just saying "oops" (which my dogs understand as a marker for a mistake made) and stepping toward them will make them re-think what they are doing and results in a sit. However you can, and may need to, take hold of your dog and physically take them back to the spot they should have sat and sit them there. Than throw another cookie away from you (in any direction), say "get it" at the same time (optional), and as before after dog is finished eating say "Fido sit". When you get a nice small circle, of dog orienting back toward you, and nice clean sit, with no step forward, run over and reward your dog in that position, give more or better cookies than the ones you use for the toss. Keep this whole exercise a fun and happy game. Don't correct your dog too harshly or too much. Once your dog has done the exercise right several times, just saying "oops" and giving no cookies for incorrect turns is often enough (with no resetting or stepping forward needed).

(4) Go out box / platform /jump stanchions -- Many trainers use go-out boxes or platforms with great success. By teaching your dog to sit on, and than to, turn on and sit on, a platform. Or to walk into, turn, and sit in a box (often made of wood or PVC looks like a C (open end oriented toward you)) you can place this at the end of the dog' go-out and really clearly explain to the dog what you expect from a turn&sit and where you want it preformed. Once the dog has built this habit and muscle memory you will fade the platform or go-out box. Alternatively you can use jump stanchions or chairs and teach your dog that at the end of the go-out they are to turn and sit between these objects. These also must than be faded. One of my dogs veers to the left at the end of his go-out so I often use just one jump stanchion, or chair, or cone on the left edge of his turn&sit to re-enforce where he is suppose to be, and if he makes a mistake, to help me explain to him why he is wrong ("this side of the post buddy, remember between these two posts, not out here").

(5) Asking for turn in un-natural direction -- Dogs will almost always have a "preferred" direction in which they will turn and sit (this is the same way they will turn after picking up the dumbbell). You will be able to notice this "handedness" in your dog's turning immediately, and likely they will turn in the same direction every time. By teaching your dog to turn in the other direction, the un-natural direction, you can gain more control and therefore demand more precision on the turn&sit. By turning in the un-natural direction the dog isn't just "doing it" they will need to think about what they are doing more. And therefore you can shape a tighter turn and a cleaner sit. This "un-natural direction" turn&sit is often taught the same way as number 2 above. Which is to say, physically turning the dog (in the un-natural) direction, this time, and sitting them facing you. However you can teach it whatever way your dog will understand best. The important thing here is that the dog turn in the un-natural direction. (If your dog is one of the few that doesn't have a preferred direction, I am sorry you are out of luck with this method, but I strongly suggest that whatever way you end up teaching the turn&sit that you demand that your dog do it the same way each time and not allow them to choose.)

(6) Butt to the fence -- I know one trainer who used this method to teach her dog the turn and sit. I have not used it myself but for the sake of completeness I wanted to include it here. I think this method would be easiest to teach using a clicker to free shape this behavior. In the "Butt to the fence" technique the dog is taught that when they hear "Fido sit" they turn themselves around 180 degrees and sit with their rear TOUCHING the fence, wall, ring gate, etc... (of course in the ring you will pull them short of this) but by building the habit of going all the way to the ring barrier and than touching it with the rear you teach the dog to 1. do a full length go-out, 2. sit oriented back toward you with no steps forward. I am not totally sold on this technique because since you will never do a go-out all the way to the ring barrier in the ring you are risking the dog figuring out that the criteria you require in practice are not needed in the ring and that is dangerous ground. However for the sake of completeness I wanted to include this method.

Without a good turn&sit even the most wonderful go-out is not going to be well scored, not to mention that your dog might be badly set up for the jumps. However to get a good turn&sit you must TEACH the behavior. If you choose not to teach it and just "yell your dogs name and sit" than you are effectively allowing your dog to define their own criteria which may include, any or all of the following, (1) large loopy turns, (2) slow crocked sits, (3) steps forward. To be fair, you must "explain" (and by this I mean "teach") your dog what you want from them on the turn&sit. I hope the six methods above give you some ideas. You can try any of them or any of them them in combination to find what will work best for your dog. You may also consider using a word other than "sit" to mean "turn and sit facing me" (one of the methods above I recommend using "spin" since that method requires a completely new behavior for the turn&sit that really isn't a sit, however you may choose to do this for any of the above, just remember to be consistent and clear in what you require).