A correction can be ANYTHING that accomplishes (and must accomplish) the two things below:
A correction:
1. immediately stops what dog is doing
2. offends the dog
How to use Corrections fairly:
Here is a flow chart from Connie Cleveland:
http://www.dogtrainersworkshop.com/default2.asp?active_page_id=103
I like this flow chart because I think it explains how and when to use corrections well.
Here are some things to keep in mind:
* Never use corrections when you are teaching, you WANT your dog to offer different behaviors at this stage.
* Once you are beyond the teaching stage decide on a criteria for each behavior, if the dog incorrectly preforms the behavior (doesn't fit into your criteria) immediately stop the exercise and simplify it.
*Never let dog fail more than 2 times, on the 3rd time make sure you have made the exercise so easy as to ensure your dog will be successful.
* Once your dog understands the exercise and how to preform it correctly and decides NOT TO (shows lack of effort) (see flow chart above). This is the time to correct (see types of corrections below).
* Corrections are not punishment!
Below is a description of basic corrections that I give to my beginner classes. They include verbal corrections, physical corrections (+ or - verbal), and leash pop corrections. I classify these corrections into Level 1 (verbal) to Level 3 (leash pop). I describe them and explain how to teach them (see below). It is important that physical (level 2) and leash pop (level 3) corrections be taught.
However remember that a correction can be ANYTHING (that 1. stops what the dog is doing, 2. offends the dog). You don't have to limit yourself to these basic corrections (described below).
For example, lets consider a more advanced correction situation and different types of corrections. Lets say my dog is working slowly and lazily one day. I want to explain to them that I don't want half-hearted work and they are making a mistake by working in this way. How do I correct for lack of energy? I am looking for something that will 1. stop what the dog is doing --- being lazy (in this case) and 2. offend the dog --- so that they won't want to be lazy again. This kind of "motivational correction" is going to be dog specific. None of the basic corrections listed below will work in this situation, what is required is a more complex and dog specific correction. When developing a dog specific "motivational" correction, I often find it is useful to use something you use while playing with that dog that you know energizes them, but remember it must offend them as well. Let me tell you what has worked for my dogs.
Motivational correction for Rosco -- I pinch, pull, or "bite" (using my hand) his butt (or top of rear legs). Rosco HATES this, he tucks his tail, but he also turns around and jumps up at me and starts jumping around. So this is what I want 2. offended, 1. stops what he is doing (being lazy). So if Rosco is being down and working half-heartily I tell him he is "naughty" and I playfully "bite" his butt and he starts jumping around and working with lots of energy. (I have put the "naughty" word to this correction recently in hopes of one day being able to use the word alone as a lesser-degree of this correction).
Motivational correction for Lola -- I push her away from me. When Lola is distracted or sniffing or working in a lazy way. I silently and quickly push her away from me. Lola finds this very annoying (criteria 2.) and she comes back to my side running and than does a better job of working (criteria 1.).
Motivational correction for Gwyneth -- For Gwyneth I have two. (A) I "bite" (using my hands) at her front feet, (B) I lift her (just an inch) off the ground. I discovered (A) by watching some herding dogs play. These Aussies were biting each others front legs and the bites were making them very playful and at the same time annoying them. Since Gwyneth is a corgi I decided to try "biting" her front legs with my hands. This worked well. Gwyneth find this behavior most annoying and she starts barking, wagging her tail, and spinning in circles. I like to use this correction, however, having to "bite" the short little legs of a corgi is not always the most convenient motivational correction to try to give, so I developed a second one for her. (B) I lift her off the ground, just an inch or two. Gwyneth is very adamant that she is a big dog and she HATES to be picked up. So the threat of being picked up, by just lifting her an inch or two, gets her attention quickly, offends her, and gets her all hyper and excited.
* Remember to correct only once you are beyond the teaching stage, and only for lack-of-effort (not ever when to dog is trying to do the right thing). When the dog is trying to do the right thing just mark the incorrect moment by ending the exercise and simplify to help them.
* Remember also that corrections you use are limited only by your imagination and the fact that they must meet the following two criteria: 1. must stop what dog is doing, 2. must offend the dog.
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How to use Basic Corrections (below is a handout I give out to my basic dog training students which covers the basic corrections, how to teach them, and use them)
Corrections in dog training
* First you must decide what you will expect from your dog. For example: When I say sit, I want my dog to sit quickly on the first command but he doesn’t have to sit completely straight.
* Once you have defined the criteria for each exercise in your head, you must be consistent.
* CORRECTIONS ARE NOT PUNISHMENT
* Corrections help your dog understand the criteria you have defined and result in a happy working relationship. Improper corrections result in mistrust. Be consistent with your criteria for each exercise and careful with the timing of your correction.
* A smart confident dog will try to push you to find the boundaries of each exercise. Corrections are a way of showing them those boundaries.
* Three levels of corrections are listed below. There are more extreme levels of corrections (not listed) but they are used in emergency situations and are never used in dog training.
* For some dogs level-1 is enough and level-2 is used only in extreme circumstances. For other dogs all corrections will be in level-3. You must know your dog and try different types of corrections to see what works. Remember to match the correction to the mistake.
* NEVER EVER CORRECT A DOG WHEN THEY ARE STILL LEARNING AN EXERCISE OR WHEN THEY ARE CONFUSED. This will make obedience training less fun for your dog and may result in them no longer being willing to offer behaviors. (It is very difficult to train a dog that doesn’t offer behaviors and/or thinks obedience is not fun).
Just Voice
* Your tone is very important, depending on the mistake you can use:
“Oops”, “try again”-----in a mild tone and not unhappy body posture
“Un un”
“NO”--in a low deep unhappy tone and rigid unhappy body posture
“AH!”
* The correction lasts a split second, it just serves as a mark of the dog’s mistake, immediately after you return to your happy self and give the dog another chance to try. Use a more stern body posture and voice when issuing the command for the second time (if needed).
Level-2 corrections
Voice
Hands used to reposition dog
NO leash
* LEVEL-2 CORRECTIONS MUST BE TAUGHT BEFORE USE
* Use voice mark (i.e. “NO”) while simultaneously repositioning dog into correct position with hands. When dog is in correct position label it (i.e. “sit”) and immediately praise.
Level-3 corrections
Voice (optional)
Leash (never use a harness or head halter when using Level-3 corrections)
* LEVEL-3 CORRECTIONS MUST BE TAUGHT BEFORE USE
* Level-3 corrections are based on a leash-pop.
* These corrections work only if the leash is loose and held decently short.
* When the mistake happens, use a quick pop in the direction you want the dog to move. For sit = up, down = down, heel = sideways toward your leg, stay = backwards, come = forwards.
* Do not exert steady pressure on the leash. Do not use the leash to reposition your dog. Do not hang your dog with the leash. Remember corrections are not punishment.
* The leash-pop lasts just a second than praise and/or treat. In my experience is you praise just after the pop you usually caught the moment your dog’s attention is back on you. Perfect timing! Good Handling = perfect timing.
Teaching Corrections
* Before you being, corrections must be taught so your dog understands them. Failure to teach corrections will result in a dog who doesn’t understand and “can’t take” the correction. (Often this is manifested as a dog that melts into the ground or shies away from the correction).
* Level-1 corrections are not taught therefore your tone of voice, body posture, and timing are critical in your dog’s ability to understand them. Use a stiff, upright body posture, look down at your dog (but not into their eyes, direct eye contact should be associated only with good things), and use a low rumbling tone when speaking.
* Level-2 corrections relay on you being able to manipulate your dog with your hands. This must be taught.
--- To begin place one hand onto your dogs back just above the tail the other hand holding their collar behind their neck. Say, “sit” in a happy voice as you pull up on their collar and gently push down on their rear back. Praise and treat when they sit.
--- For down, tell the dog to “down” as you pull lightly on the front of their collar toward the ground and push down gently on their shoulders.
--- You are looking for the dog not to react to your hands on their body and for them to work with you rather than fighting against you.
--- Remember that because you have TAUGHT level-2 corrections you will praise your dog and give treats when they are learning them and later occasionally when you use these corrections.
* Level-3 corrections relay on your dog understanding the leash-pop. This must be taught.
--- Pop & Treat Method: Begin with your dog sitting on your left hand side, hold onto their collar and pull up in a quick pop, immediately give a treat. Once your dog begins looking for the treat when they feel to pop on their collar move to holding onto the leash. Hold the leash very short just above the collar, repeat the pop and treat exercise again.
--- This should be done in a 100% happy way. Remember we are training the dog at this point not correcting.
--- Don’t worry about your dog not understanding the leash pop as a correction later just because you have taught it in a happy way. In context your dog will understand it as a correction and they will also be familiar with it so they won’t react negatively.
--- Remember because you have TAUGHT the leash pop you will often follow it with a treat and/or praise, even when it is being used as a correction.
Using Corrections
* Corrections are not punishment!
* They mark the incorrect moment and that is all.
* Praise should outnumber corrections at LEAST 2-1 during each training session.
* Never set your dog up to fail. If they have done an exercise incorrectly twice, don’t do it again, do something easier that you know your dog will succeed in doing.
* REMEMBER TO KEEP IT FUN!!
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