As I wrote in that post, ideally a dog will trot at normal pace, walk in slow pace, and canter in fast pace. This requires a dog to TRANSITION from a walk to a trot, from a trot to a canter, from a canter to a trot, and from a trot to a walk. Smooth and seem less transitions between gaits must be taught and practiced. More about gait change TRANSITIONS below.
Alternatively, remember that by extending or collecting a gait your dog can almost do any gait at any speed (within reason). Also remember that you want to pick your normal walking speed based on your dogs normal trot speed. So, your dog could trot for normal, do a collected trot for the slow pace, and do an extended trot for fast pace. Since obedience rules don't require your dog to change gait only to change pace this is a viable option. The disadvantage of this choice is that there is a chance the dog will not change pace (since they are maintaining the same gait throughout). The advantage is that there are no gait TRANSITIONS to worry about teaching and perfecting.
Videos of both of these alternatives are shown below. Notice that both alternatives are equally successful (and both dogs show in videos below have OTCH titles). The first video is of Bridget and Soupy. You can see that Soupy trots at normal pace, walks in slow pace, and canters in fast pace. Since she changes to a new gait for each pace she must, and does, seamlessly TRANSITIONS between all three different gaits. The second video is of Soupy's son Tailor (sire = Canyon, 2005 litter). Notice that Tailor never transitions gaits. He does the normal at a trot, the slow in a collected trot, and the fast pace in a extended trot.
Soupy (pace change TRANSITIONS)(heeling begins at 3:35)
Tailor (no TRANSITIONS, extension and collection of gait)
It was important to me to show you two closely related dogs (Soupy and her son, Tailor) in the videos above since structure of the dog can and does play a role in whether you choose to teach your dog to transition gaits or not and I didn't want you to be biased by that fact when watching the two alternatives. However that is an important point to remember, you must consider your dogs ability to transition to, and maintain certain gaits (as well as your ability to run fast enough or walk slow enough) when deciding what gaits and gait transitions to use. Remember that you can ALTERNATIVELY teach just ONE SET of gait TRANSITIONS say: walk for slow, TRANSITION, to trot for normal, NO TRANSITION, extended trot for fast. Whatever you choose to do remember to be consistent and require consistency from your dog, they should use the same gaits and/or the same extension or collection at each pace each time (see post "proper gaiting for heelwork" May 18, 2009 for more info).
Pace Change TRANSITIONS:
Consider the images above. Notice that to TRANSITION from the Walk to the Trot (a suspended trot is shown) the dog must drop his rear (put more weight into his rear end) and increase the angulation of his rear legs (rear legs are reaching further back). To transition from a trot to a canter the dog must further drop his rear, such that his front legs are able to come free off the ground and the dog must be going fast enough such that he can extend his body (legs reaching back and legs reaching forward at same time).
The images above along with a lot more information can be found at:
http://www.shawlein.com/The_Standard/09_Movement_1/Movement_1.html
For more information you may also want to look at:
http://rsif.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/early/2009/02/08/rsif.2008.0328.full
http://cal.vet.upenn.edu/projects/saortho/chapter_91/91mast.htm
Teaching Pace Change TRANSITIONS:
Slow to Normal Transition:
* When I teach the slow pace(walk) to normal pace(trot) transition I begin by heeling the dog in a clockwise circle (dog on the outside). I want my dog in Slow or walk gait. By heeling the dog on the outside of the circle I have to go very slow for my dog to go slow (walk). Than I simply heel away or out of the circle (no turns just continue going straight on one side) at my normal pace. I encourage my dog to drive up and out of the circle into normal pace (trot). I want my dog to drive up so often I treat up and slightly in front of me just at the transition moment (remember you want the dog to drop his rear and increase the angulation of his legs). I don't ask for a jump into my hand as I do with jumping heel starts (post May 15, 2009). But I do ask him to drive up and forward. I do this first at the moment of transition and than start to require a few steps at the new normal pace (dog in trot) before I treat. I also often give small upwards tugs on the leash (not pops) just little nudges and encourage my dog ("up, up, up") in a sweet way. I NEVER look at my dogs. I am teaching them what my body will look like as I move from slow to normal so I want to make sure I keep the picture as clear and consistent for them as possible.
Normal to Fast Transition:
I teach normal to fast transition in much the same way except now I will enter a counter clockwise (dog on the inside circle). I begin by heeling my dog forward at normal pace (dog in trot) and than I go into my fast pace (my dogs canter pace) at the same time I start making a counter clockwise circle (dog on the inside). You may want to practice this without your dog first to get it right. As before I encourage my dog to drive up and forward. Only this time I will allow my dog to jump into my hand as with heel starts if needed. I may even take one skip step before I go into my fast pace to encourage my dog up. It is important for the dog to completely free his front legs in order to transition into a canter so I encourage jumping and lifting by skipping or asking for him to jump into my hand. Remember again DON'T LOOK at your dog and keep your movement and pace as natural as possible.
Normal to Slow Transition:
* I teach the normal to slow transition in by heeling my dog forward and than just at the point of transition entering a counter-clockwise circle (dog on the outside) and at the same time starting to put sustained pressure forward on the leash. By pulling gently forward on the leash the dog will resist backward and this will shift his weight forward, leading to resistance from the front, and force his legs under him, and allow him to shift to a slow pace (walk). Remember this leash pull should be as gentle as possible, it should not be strong enough for the dog to drop his head in order to resist it, and should be as centered (from the middle of his body) as possible. I release and praise right away initially, eventually I require a few steps in slow (walk) before I release.
Fast to Normal Transition:
* Moving on the clockwise circle (dog on the inside) in fast (dog in canter). I do much the same thing as above, I walk out of the circle continue straight as I shift to normal pace (dogs trot) and at the same time I apply and maintain a gentle forward pressure on the leash that the dog will resist and which results in the proper body movements that will allow the dog to transition to a trot. Remember that you don't want the dog to transition all the way to a slow (walk) so you will have to modulate the pressure appropriately. DON'T LOOK DOWN at your dog when doing this.
Remember that whether you want your dog to transition gaits during pace change transitions is totally up to you. Whatever you decide on should be the same each time, don't let your dog extend a trot one day for fast and gait transition to a canter on another day. Consistency is the key. If you do plan or requiring pace change transitions from your dog take time to teach them so that your dog understands what is expected of him and that they are as smooth and natural as possible. It can be very useful to video tape your pace change transitions or to work in front of a mirror so that you can keep track of how the dog is moving his body. Also notice that I do my slow and fast paces on circles (counter-clockwise and clockwise respectively) initially and only my normal in a straight line.
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