Six Different Ways To Teach Retrieving

There may be "50 ways to leave your lover" but there are "6 ways to teach your dog to retrieve".

My 2 cents: In my opinion the retrieve is the first obedience exercise you will encounter in the Novice-Open-Utility progression that takes more thought and planning than just "doing what seems to make sense". Other obedience exercises you have taught to your dog so far may have taken the dog some time to learn to do well, like heeling, but for the most part any way you could think to teach them, including having no plan at all and just dragging your dog around the ring for-long-enough-that-he-finally-understands-what-to-do, have probably worked. The retrieve is not like that.

To teach a retrieve in a efficient way you must (1) decide on a technique (I have listed and described six different techniques below) and you must (2) be willing to stick with it for long enough. Now there is a lot to be said for realizing that what you are doing is not working and trying something else. However please understand that the retrieve can take many months to teach so you must be willing to give any technique you decide to use a chance. And you must devote some serious training time to it. It took me a whole month to get Rosco to take the dumbbell, 30 days working twice a day. So depending on the technique you choose, and the dog you have, be willing to spend some time teaching the retrieve.

The more planning you do before beginning the teaching process the more clear and fair you will be to your dog and the faster and more fun the teaching process will be. To help you plan I have listed 6 different ways to teach the retrieve below and described them briefly. Choose the method (or even combination of methods) that you think will work best for your dog and for yourself (if you are not going to be comfortable doing an ear pinch please don't choose to teach a force retrieve). When choosing a method really think about WHO your dog is. Is he stubborn? Does he already retrieve for fun? Is he toy motivated? Food motivated? What do you think your dog's biggest problem with the retrieve (doing it correctly in the ring) will be? Going out slowly to pick it up or not wanting to pick it up? sniffing around instead? Going out too fast not waiting for you to release him? playing with the dumbbell, hitting it with his feet, picking it up "wrong" (usually means by the bells instead of in the middle)? Not coming back to you with the dumbbell? Running away with it? Dropping it? Mouthing it?

Each technique below has pros and cons so when deciding on what method to use it is important to match your dog's weaknesses (problems you anticipate the dog may have) with the techniques strengths (the pros of the technique). For example if you think your dog will likely pounce on, play with, or kick the dumbbell around when he gets to it DON'T choose the play retrieve which can often exacerbate this behavior choose another method, perhaps an Inductive retrieve instead. My three dogs are very different so I taught the retrieve three different ways (methods below marked with * are methods I used to train my dogs).

Six Different Ways to Teach a Retrieve (in no particular order):
(1) Motivational Retrieve
(2) Inductive Retrieve
(3) Play Retrieve
(4) Force Retrieve
(5) Shaped Retrieve
(6) Fly-ball Retrieve

More Details About Each Method:

(1) Motivational Retrieve*

This method uses a clicker (or other conditional reinforcer like saying "yes") to free shape the retrieve behavior. Briefly: you begin by laying the dumbbell (or other object) on the ground and "click" for any interaction the dog has with it, including just looking at it, than you slowly increase the criteria (requiring more from the dog before you click) for example next you only "click" when the dog puts his nose on the bar of the dumbbell (ignoring when he puts his nose on the bells), than when he picks it up, etc...

The Pros:
*This method is a good choice is you already do some clicker work with your dog and your dog is comfortable offering you behaviors and interacting with objects on their own.
*This method also works well if you find yourself needing to "re-teach" the retrieve because your dog "hates" the dumbbell. By letting him interact with it on his own, without pushing it into his mouth, or forcing him to hold etc... The dog's confidence will return, he will be able to do everything at his own pace, and he will begin to believe picking up the dumbbell is his own idea.

The Cons:
*Your dog must be either clicker trained or have some prior exposure to a conditional reinforcer before beginning this method.
*This method takes a long time and may even take a VERY long time. Remember it is important for the dog to FIGURE IT OUT by himself. Depending on your dog that may take a long time.
*Also be aware of the fact that this method is based on the dumbbell pick up being the dog's idea, so it always leaves the door open, that in the ring, under pressure your dog may "decide" not to retrieve the dumbbell.

I personally like to teach the motivational retrieve in combination with another retrieve method like the inductive or play retrieve (again depending on your dog). The motivational retrieve has worked very well for me as a way to teach HOLD in the past. I also like incorporating some of the corrections used in the Shaped Retrieve with this method so that I have some type of correction available to me should I ever need it.

Note: A Motivational Retrieve always involves a clicker or other conditional reinforcer. However there are several other retrieve methods out there that teach the dog to retrieve in a motivational way that you may hear people refer to as a "motivational retrieve" (especially in Schutzhund) don't get confused.

A wonderful and very detailed explanation of all the steps of the motivation retrieve are available at:
http://www.shirleychong.com/keepers/retrieve.html

Here is a video of a motivational retrieve being taught using a verbal conditional reinforcer (rather than a clicker):
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/2500585/shaping_a_motivational_trained_retrieve_labrador_puppy/

(2) Inductive Retrieve*

This method uses a series of steps by which you are manipulating the dog, the dumbbell and labeling and rewarding each part. For example you place the dumbbell in the dogs mouth and label that action, TAKE IT, and reward it. Than ask the dog to keep his mouth still and label that moment with HOLD, than reward it.

The Pros:
* By labeling every part of the retrieve, you have a way to very clearly communicate with your dog and explain to them which part you didn't like, and therefore you can correct the dog fairly.
* It keeps the retrieve a SERIOUS exercise, and establishes that when it comes to the dumbbell, the dog is working and that there are certain things you expect.

The Cons:
* Your dog must be comfortable with you touching, opening, and holding their mouth. If this is a negative thing for them than having something in their mouth will take on a negative connotation and that defeats the purpose.
* This technique creates little to no "drive" out to the dumbbell.

I really like this method. It not flashy or particularly fun but for the right dog it can work well. It worked really well for me. My dog understood it well. I especially like this technique for NATURAL RETRIEVERS since it establishes the dumbbell retrieve as serious business. I also like this method in combo with the forced retrieve since it lays a good foundation before the force is introduced.

The booklet below lays out all the steps for teaching the Inductive Retrieve:
A GUIDE TO THE INDUCTIVE RETRIEVE, REVISED
by Sue Sternberg

(3) Play Retrieve*

This method is based on teaching a fun (play retrieve) and than refining it into a formal obedience retrieve. First you build desire for a given toy (or two toys) and you throw one and when the dog picks it up, you throw the other. Than you start asking your dog to come to you with the toy and when they do YOU DON'T GRAB THE TOY FROM THEM, instead you lavishly praise the dog (preferable with toy still in his mouth) and you throw a second toy. Finally you start trading the dog the toy for a treat, and lastly you start refining everything so that it all looks more formal.

The Pros:
* This technique builds love for the retrieving game and the object being thrown
* Many people already have a play retrieve that their dog can do so they won't be starting at ground zero.

The Cons:
* This method teaches that the retrieve is first and foremost a game, and it can be very difficult to convince the dog that he must take the retrieve SERIOUSLY in the ring later.
* This method relies on the object being THROWN. This can be a problem later in utility when the dog is asked to retrieve objects that were not thrown (gloves and scent articles).
* By trying to build a formal obedience retrieve from the play retrieve that your dog may already be doing at home, you intertwine the two behaviors in the dog's mind. This can make it very confusing for him later. If your dog is already retrieving objects, and mouthing some of them and playing with other ones, and dropping them at will, and picking them up in a manner of his own choosing, by formalizing that behavior how do you explain to the dog when he is allowed to choose and when he has to do it your way? By leaving this as a grey area in the dog's mind you are asking for trouble. Consider these questions: Why is he not allowed to mouth here but can mouth the object there? Why must he sit in front of you holding the object here but not there? etc...
* In addition this method does little to "teach" the dog what you expect of them and how every part of the exercise should look. Instead you let him determine how his own joyful interaction with the dumbbell will look, and in fact you rewarded the dog for offering different ones each time. One time he pounces on the dumbbell, another time he throws it around, etc... You must therefore take great care when you are working to make the retrieve formal that you are not "correcting" the dog for things you never "taught" him.

I think the play retrieve method is a good method to use in combo with any other method. When I teach a force retrieve, I often also teach a play retrieve along side it to keep my dogs happy about the game. Contrary to what you might be thinking to yourself the play retrieve method is the WRONG choice for most NATURAL RETRIEVERS mainly for the reason listed in the CONS section above.

Here is a video showing how to start teaching a play retrieve:
http://www.maryland-dog-training.com/2008/01/teach-your-pup-to-retrieve-motivational.html

A wonderful web site laying out a good way to teach a play retrieve:
http://www.nwk9.com/twosqueakies.htm

(4) Force Retrieve (the Ear Pinch method)*

The idea behind this method is to train, through the use of some form of compulsion, a dog to pick up an object quickly and cleanly. The form of compulsion used can be an ear pinch or toe hitch or any other unpleasant-feeling the dog is trying to alleviate. The dog learns that the retrieve is no laughing matter and he learns that when told to retrieve he MUST do it.

The Pros:
* A very straight forward and widely used method (it was the method of choice for many years in obedience training). It is easy to find books about it, trainers who can help you with it, and it is easy for dogs to understand when it is done right.
* It works fast. If you want your dog retrieving as soon as possible this is likely the best choice.
* It creates lots of drive in the dog for the dumbbell and when done right will result in a dog that focuses on and will pick up the dumbbell every time in any situation.
* It gives you a correction to use when the dog makes a mistake. And the dog has an understand of that correction and how to make it stop since it was used as part of the teaching process. This can be especially useful when training for utility, both because in utility retrieve, objects are no longer thrown (gloves and scent articles) and objects may be unpleasant (metal articles) or too pleasant (gloves) to pick up.

The Cons:
* Many people are uncomfortable using this training method. You must be comfortable with it in order to use it effectively.
* It can create too much drive and anxiety in some dogs, such that the dog is almost "shaking" on-the-line (when he is sitting next to you before you send him for the dumbbell). These dogs can't think about anything else and will often "break" (run out before sent).
* This technique only teaches the "leave my side and pick up the dumbbell quickly and cleanly" part. It does little or nothing to address how or if the dog comes back to you with the dumbbell or whether or not they HOLD the dumbbell well.
* This method takes a semi-experienced eye to know how much compulsion to use, too much pressure may crush a dogs spirit, too little will confuse the dog.

I think when it is done right a forced retrieve is a wonderful thing. But when it is done wrong there is nothing worse. Don't just start pinching your dog please research this method and write down some steps for yourself or work with a trainer. This method is very useful for stubborn dogs or dogs that need to be convinced that picking up the dumbbell is their idea. If the dog enjoys working with you and can think their way through pressure this is a good method to try. You may hear people say "that if you want a reliable retrieve you must force break (which means teach a force retrieve) to your dog." It is true that guide dog agencies (that require the dog to pick up cold keys that were dropped into a mud puddle every time when the handler asks the dog too) and people training field dogs (that require their dog's to pick up 12 ducks in any type of weather at 100 yards) almost always teach dogs forced retrieves. However, for a reliable obedience retrieve I don't think a forced retrieve is necessary. I have seen dogs mess up the retrieve in the ring who were not forced fetched (another name for a forced retrieve) and I have seen dogs mess up the retrieve in the ring who were force fetched. One of my dogs was taught to retrieve using this method and my other two were not, yet all of them have equally reliable retrieves.

Many people, books, and tapes can describe the force retrieve to you, my favorite is probably:
Connie Cleveland, either her book or videos entitled "Dogs are Problem Solvers Handlers Should be", and better yet attending one of her seminars if you get the chance: http://www.dogtrainersworkshop.com/default2.asp?active_page_id=80

(5) Shaped Retrieve

The shaped retrieve method is very similar to the motivation retrieve method, with a few minor differences. Including some physical holding of the dogs muzzle like those used in the inductive retrieve, and teaching the "take" and the "hold" separately from one another.

The Pros:
* This method does not use force or play drive.
* This method really "teaches" the dogs every step of the retrieve process and that he must take the retrieve SERIOUSLY.

The Cons:
* Because this method does not have any inherent corrections you must make an effort to develop some on your own.
* There is no drive for the dumbbell created in this method.
* Your dog must be comfortable with you physically manipulating him.
* Your dog must have had some prior exposure to a conditional reinforcer.

Though I have never used it myself. I find this technique to be a nice blend between the inductive retrieve and the motivational retrieve. If you decide to teach the shaped retrieve you will have to be creative when you are looking for corrections you can use. Since you won't be teaching corrections you will have to find something that your dog understands "naturally" like: a push on the back of the dog's head, a collar pop, or a goose on the dog's rear.

This method is well presented and sketch out in a logical progression in:
Positively Fetching: Teaching the Obedience Retrieves Using Food
by Adele Yunck and Judy Byron which is available as book or a video.

(6) Fly-ball Retrieve (Backwards chain retrieve)

This method starts with the last step of the retrieve (dog sitting in front position you asking dog to GIVE or OUT dumbbell) and works backwards to the dog driving for the dumbbell (on your TAKE IT or FETCH command). The "teaching" of this retrieve resembles the motivation or shaped retrieve method only the order of the steps is reversed.

The Pros:
* By teaching the OUT and the HOLD commands first you have built a good foundation for the TAKE IT command. (more on this below)
* With the right dog this can be a simple and quick way to teach the retrieve

The Cons:
* Creates little drive for the dumbbell
* Your dog must have some inherent "interest" in the object you are using to teach this technique with or it won't work.
* Since you are using food and toys your dog must be able to "think" in this environment and not fixate on either the toys or food.

I find this method fascinating and though I have never used it myself this is the way I intend to teach my next dog to retrieve (perhaps in combination with another method above - depending on my dog of course). One of the biggest struggles people face when teaching their dog to retrieve is: they ask the dog to TAKE IT, the dog does, they now want to praise and reward so they either:
* ask the dog to OUT and/or HOLD before praising and rewarding
* quickly remove the dumbbell from the dogs mouth, praise and reward
* ignore the HOLD and praise the dog with the dumbell in mouth for the TAKE.
Any of these ways can create confusion for the dog. In these instances a conditional reinforcer (like a clicker) may help you. However by using the Fly-ball or Backward Chain retrieve by the time you are teaching the TAKE you have already taught the dog to HOLD and OUT. This is a nice way of removing a lot of the confusion.

Here is an explaination of the Fly-ball or Backward Chain retrieve method:
http://flyballdogs.com/training.html#easy_retrieve

Last but not least, this is FUN. Most dogs love to retrieve, even if they must be taught the game. Most people love to play this game with their dogs. So enjoy it. If you dread the dumbbell your dog will too.